Wazoo's Manual Charting & Targeting Tutorial [v 2.3]

Introduction

Donations Welcomed!

Mods and Tools Required

Section I - Manual Charting While at Dead Stop

Step 1: Locate and ID Your Target

Step 2: Make First Observation

Step 3: Mark Observation on Navigation Chart

Step 4: Wait 3 Minutes and 15 Seconds Then Make Next Observation

Step 5: Get The Target Speed From Your Observations

Step 6: Determine the Target’s Course

Section II - Manual Charting While Moving

Step 1: Locating the Target and Setting a Roughly Parallel Course

Step 2: Get Your U-Boat Ready

Step 3: Make First Observation Point

Step 4: Mark Current U-Boat position on Navigation Map

Step 5: Convert the Bearing to Target into Bearing to Target from North

Step 6: Draw a Bearing Line to the Target

Step 7: Wait 3 Minutes and 15 Seconds Then Make Next Observation

Step 8: Get The Target Speed From Your Observations

Step 9: Determine the Target’s Course

Section III - Fast 90 Basic Manual Targeting

Step 1: Calculate a Course Perpendicular to Target

Step 2: Turn to the Calculated Perpendicular Course

Step 3: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

Step 4: Calibrate Scope & TDC

Step 5: Final Target Observation

Step 6: LOS!

Section IV - Fast 90 Advanced Manual Targeting

Step 1 - Calculate a Course Perpendicular to the Target

Step 2 - Turn to your Desired Course

Step 3: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

Step 4: Calculate Scope Bearing for TDC Calibration

Step 6: Final Target Observation

Step 7: LOS!

Section V - Wheel Manual Targeting

Step 1: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

Step 2: Determine Angle on the Bow (AoB)

Step 3: Enter AoB into the Notepad

Step 4: Final Observation

Step 5: LOS!

Section VI - Advanced Speed Calculation - Using the Nomograph

Whats a Nomograph

Pick Your Nomograph Mod

Step 1: Determine the Target's Distance Traveled in a Given Time

Step 2: Draw a Line Connecting Your Target Distance Traveled and Time Traveled

Tutorial Related Links

Introduction

As somewhat of a new guy to hardcore submarine simulators, I know first hand

how difficult and intimidating tackling the subject in hardcore mode can be.

However, decades of being a diehard flight sim junkie has taught me that the

most satisfying gameplay comes from making it as real as possible.

So when I started to play Silent Hunter III, I was determined to learn how to chart

contacts manually and do all my targeting manually as well.

What follows is my attempt to help out those who, like me, are new to the genre, yet

want to strive for the satisfaction of doing it all manually; for there is nothing more

satisfying in SHIII then doing it all by hand and scoring a hit.

My goal is to create a targeting and plotting environment where you never need to hit

the PAUSE button.  Working under the constraints of a ticking clock while the world

continues on around you brings, IMHO, a level of excitement that is the reason we all

"play" simulators such as SHIII.

I hope I've come close to doing it.

Enjoy!

Paul "Wazoo" Wasserman

Disclaimer:  I do not claim that this is the only way, or even the "best" way to do manual

charting and manual targeting.  Nor do I claim that this is all original thought.  In fact, most

of the techniques I employ I have shamelessly stolen from others who have been doing

this MUCH longer than I have.  I just hope to save someone else the time I spent figuring

this all out while playing, practicing, and reading endlessly the FABULOUS forums

over at Subsim.com.

Donations Welcomed!

There has been an overwhelming response since I posted this Tutorial several weeks back with over a

thousand unique visitors coming every day!  This has, somewhat unexpectedly, caused my monthly bandwidth

requirements to climb quite high.

If you find this Tutorial helpful, please click the PayPal Donation link and send over $1 (or two) to

help me keep the Tutorial going.

Thanks!

MODS & TOOLS Required

The Sub Simulation Community has offered creative solutions to some of the

issues with SHIII.  A few of these "Mods" and "Tools" are required for the

tutorial.  Depending on the method you decide works best for you when plotting

and attacking, not all of these tools are required.

Jiim’s INCREDIBLE mapping tools [Required for ALL methods Pre Patch 1.3]:

NOTE: Jiim's mapping tools are now INCLUDED in SHIII Patch version 1.3.  If you have updated to

that patch, there is no need to download his Mods.  Just select the QUESTION MARK button when

in the Navigation Map to get to Jiim's Tools.

http://www.subsim.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=264649

NOTE: Jiim allows two variants of the ruler mod compass. 

This tutorial assumes you are using the option where the compass

that appears on the ruler tool has 180 at the top and 0 at the bottom

as shown in the picture below.

Etchasketch’s BRILLIANT AoB finder wheel [Required for "Wheel" Targeting]:

http://www.subsim.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=30852

Pato's AWESOME Bearing & Range Mod [Required for "Dead Stop" Plotting]:

http://forums.ubi.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=400102&f=9091085392&m=5431068603

I originally used Jase's fantastic bearing mod.... and then I found this one.  Not only

are the bearing lines fabulous, but the range lines make charting within 1.5km

DEADLY accurate.

NOTE: Pato has updated his mod to go out to 3km!  However, the is an incompatibility with ATI graphics hardware.

If you are using ATI graphics hardware, you must use the original 1.5km version which I have posted on my website:

Pato's 1.5km Bearing Mod

Devnull's EXCELLENT 1 degree scope marking Mod [Optional but VERY helpful for precision]:

http://www.charliex.com/sh3/

Follow the directions that come with these mods, or check the forums at

Subsim.com for help.

The following tutorial was done in the Academy Torpedo mission

Section I - Manual Charting While at Dead Stop

The Goal: Determine the heading and speed of the target.

Depending on the situation, you may find that it is best to have your U-Boat at a complete

stop to make your observations and for charting plots.  This is the easiest method of manual

charting and is recommended for the beginner.  However, MANY advanced and expert

players only make their observations and charting from a Dead Stop, so don't feel

that you are missing anything.

Step #1: Locate and ID Your Target

When a ship is sighted, center it in the scope/UZO and press “L” to

lock the target.

Bring up your Ship Registry and look for your contact.  Once found,

make sure to check the box so the mast height is entered on the notepad as in

the picture below.

Step #2: Make First Observation

It is a truism that the more observation points you mark on the map in

manual charting/TDC mode, the better.  You can, in a pinch, get by with

only two observation points.  However, I try to make three or four to increase the accuracy. 

However many points you decide to make, the technique is the same for each.

Place the horizontal line of your scope on the waterline of the target. 

Next, click on “Range” in the Notepad.  This will switch you to the Stadimeter

which you then place at the top of the highest mast of the ship. 

Click the left mouse button when the line has been placed on the highest mast. 

The range to target will then appear in the Notepad.

NOTE: The highest mast can be determined in the Ship Registry by looking at the target page that has only one ship on it. 

Look at the number that appears in your scope right over the center of the target.  This is the Bearing to Target in

relation to your ship.  In the above example, the Target Bearing is 350 degrees from the bow of the U-Boat and the range

is 1635 meters.

Click on the stopwatch to begin what will be a three minute time period.

TIP:  It is good practice to lower your periscope with CTRL-PageDown once

an observation is made to decrease the probability of being spotted.

YOU NOW HAVE 3 MINUTES TO COMPLETE A PLOT OF THE TARGET’S POSITION

Step #3: Mark Observation on Navigation Chart

Hit "F5" to get to the Navigation Map and zoom all the way into the your U-Boat.

Select the Ruler Tool and place one end of your bearing line in the dead center

of the U-Boat icon by clicking the left mouse button:

Now extend the line along the the 350 degree bearing line.  Why 350 degrees? Because, that

is the bearing to the target you noted from your first observation:

Setting the correct range requires a bit of estimating because when a number

on the ruler changes, let’s say from 1.6km as you extend the ruler to 1.7km,

you must subtract 50 meters.  Thus 1.7km is NOT 1700m when it changes

from 1.6km, but is actually 1650m.  An annoying little issue that I hope is

fixed in a future patch.

Tip: The Range Circles on the Bearing Mod appear to be the correct distances.  Therefore,

if your target is 1500 meters or less, you can use the Range Circles for greater accuracy.

Note: You may use either the Bearing & Range Mod that draws the Bearing and Range

circle centered around your U-Boat, OR, you may use the Jiim's Compass Ruler Mod that appears at

the end of the Ruler line to find 350 degrees.  As long as you are plotting within 2km or so of your U-Boat,

the Range & Bearing Mod is usually still visible and thus quite helpful.  However, when plotting

long distances, you might find the Compass Mod to be quite handy.  The choice is yours and the

results are identical.

Important: In the above example, BOTH the Bearing Mod AND the Ruler Compass show 350 degrees.

This is ONLY a coincidence because the U-Boat is heading exactly due north.  If the U-Boat were, say,

heading 20 degrees and the target was bearing 350 degrees from the U-Boat, the Compass Ruler would

NOT show 350 degrees, but instead would show the Bearing to Target from North.  In this case, that

would be 10 degrees on the Compass.  Therefore, if you need to make a bearing line that is too far from

the Bearing Mod, just match up the number on the Ruler Compass to where it "touches" the U-Boat's

target bearing on the Bearing Mod.  For a complete discussion of converting a Target Bearing to a

Target Bearing from North, see the discussion under Charting while Moving.

Step #4: Wait 3 Minutes and 15 Seconds Then Make Next Observation

Go back into your scope view (either periscope or UZO) and await

the 3 minute 15 second point on the stop watch. With about 30 seconds left,

raise your periscope (you DID lower it to maintain stealth, right??) and take

another range reading.  I usually do a couple as I approach the 3 minute mark to test my accuracy.

When the stopwatch hits 3 minutes 15 seconds, lower the scope and go back to the Navigation map and repeat Step #3 above.

Above: Plotting of 2nd Observation Point -  Bearing 000 degrees

Section II - Manual Charting While Moving

The Goal: Determine the heading and speed of the target.

Depending on the situation, you might find it advantageous to make your

observations and do your manual charting while your U-Boat is in motion.

Often this is done to keep the range of the target ships at a reasonable

distance as the farther away they get, the smaller they get, and the harder

it is to get accurate range information.

The downside is, as discussed below, you need to make more calculations

compared to the Dead Stop method of plotting.  It is, overall, a more complex

way of plotting and recommended after you have mastered Dead Stop plotting.

Step #1: Locating the Target and Setting a Roughly Parallel Course

When a ship is sighted, center it in the scope/UZO and press “L” to

lock the target.  Make a visual observation of the contact’s course

relative to yours and click on the compass to set a course roughly parallel

to your target. 

*IMPORTANT* - As highlighted in the picture below,

note your new course as called out by your Chief Engineer. 

This will be VERY important shortly.

Do your best to get your bow heading in a direction that

is ahead of the contact and will close distance over time. 

Perfection ain’t important here; just head in the correct

general direction by not letting the contact bearing get too far

behind your beam.

Step #2: Get Your U-Boat Ready

While you are turning towards your new course, go to the Navigation map

and zoom all the way in to your U-boat.  This will make accurate markings

in real-time simpler. 

Bring up your Ship Registry and look for your contact.  Once found,

make sure to check the box so the mast height is entered on the notepad as in

the picture below.

Confirm that you are now on your new course set in Step #1 above. 

You’ll know when the rudder gauge shows zero turn as in picture above.

DO NOT PROCEED TO STEP #3 UNTIL YOU ARE ON YOUR NEW COURSE! 

By slowing down, not only do you help your stealth, you make real-time mapping a tad easier.

As you get better, try upping the speed if you so desire.

Step #3: Make First Observation Point

It is a truism that the more observation points you mark on the map in

manual charting/TDC mode, the better.  For this method, you can, in a pinch, get by with

only two observation points.  However, I try to make three or four to increase the accuracy. 

However many points you decide to make, the technique is the same for each.

Place the horizontal line of your scope on the waterline of the target. 

Next, click on “Range” in the Notepad.  This will switch you to the Stadimeter

which you then place at the top of the highest mast of the ship. 

Click the left mouse button when the line has been placed on the highest mast. 

The range to target will then appear in the Notepad.

NOTE: The highest mast can be determined in the Ship Registry by looking at the target page that has only one ship on it. 

Look at the number that appears in your scope right over the center of the target.  This is the Bearing to Target in

relation to your ship.  In the above example, the Target Bearing is 310 degrees from the bow of the U-Boat and the range

is 1635 meters.

Click on the stopwatch to begin what will be a three minute time period.

TIP:  It is good practice to lower your periscope with CTRL-PageDown once

an observation is made to decrease the probability of being spotted.

YOU NOW HAVE 3 MINUTES TO COMPLETE A PLOT OF THE TARGET’S POSITION

Step #4: Mark Current U-Boat position on Navigation Map

Since we are doing this without hitting the pause key, your U-boat position needs

to be marked with the Marker tool to insure accurate plotting of the target. 

Quickly Hit “F5” to get to the Navigation Map and select the Marker tool. 

Move the Marker tool over your U-boat and left click to enter a “Mark”. 

This is more accurate the slower you are going.

Step #5: Convert the Bearing to Target into Bearing to Target from North

As your U-boat is moving away from your observation point (the one you marked in Step #4),

it is not possible to use Jase's Bearing mod that displays bearings for your U-boat.  This is because there is currently

no mod available that keeps the orientation of the U-boat's bearings at a marked point on the map.

Thus, we need a workaround to do this without pausing and then marking from the U-boat’s “frozen” position.

To do this, we need to convert the Target Bearing into the Target Bearing from North.

Put another way, if the U-Boat was traveling EXACTLY due North, what would the Target Bearing from the U-boat be?

Luckily, this is quite simple because you have your U-boat’s current course heading which we took in Step #1.

To convert Target Bearing from your U-Boat to Target Bearing from North, just add your course

from Step #1 to the target bearing you took in Step #3.

In this example, the target is bearing 310 and the U-Boat’s course is 44.

310 + 44 = 354 deg target bearing from North.

TIP: If your answer is greater than 360, just subtract 360 from the sum to get the Target Bearing from North.

Step #6: Draw a Bearing Line to the Target

Select the ruler tool, and extend a line from the position you marked as your observation point in Step #4 through

the bottom of the compass that appears at the tip of the ruler.  The key point here is to extend the line

not only the distance you recorded as the range to the target, but also at the

Target Bearing to North which you calculated above.

Simply have the line pass through the compass on the end of the ruler at the Target Bearing to North value. 

In the example below, notice how the line goes through 354 degrees on the compass’ outer ring.

Setting the correct range requires a bit of estimating because when a number

on the ruler changes, let’s say from 1.6km as you extend the ruler to 1.7km,

you must subtract 50 meters.  Thus 1.7km is NOT 1700m when it changes

from 1.6km, but is actually 1650m.  An annoying little issue that I hope is

fixed in a future patch.

Step #7: Wait 3 Minutes and 15 Seconds Then Make Next Observation

Go back into your scope view (either periscope or UZO) and await

the 3 minute 15 second point on the stop watch. With about 30 seconds left,

raise your periscope (you DID lower it to maintain stealth, right??) and take

another range reading.  I usually do a couple as I approach the 3 minute mark to test my accuracy.

When the stopwatch hits 3 minutes and 15 seconds, lower the scope and go back to the Navigation map and

repeat Steps #4, #5, & #6 above.

Above: Mark #2 made for 2nd Observation

Above: Target Bearing to North (355 degrees) =

Target Bearing from U-boat (311 degrees) + U-boat Course (44 degrees)

Step #8: Get The Target Speed From Your Observations

I have found that using Notepad stopwatch feature to determine target speed is often not accurate.

This is especially true when your U-boat is moving.  Plus, it is more challenging and fun to do

it from your charting like was done for real!

Luckily, we have taken our observations in 3 minute 15 second increments.  This has a HUGE

benefit of being able to calculate the target’s speed without having to make

complicated calculations on the fly.

Just select the ruler tool and draw a line connecting the two target points

you plotted during your two observations.  The distance of your line

is a very close estimation of what the target’s speed is in knots.

For example, if the length of the measurement is .3km (or 300m),

then the speed of the target is 3 knots. 500m is 5 knots, etc.

Above: The ruler line switched to .3km a tad before this mark.

Thus, I estimate the speed (based on the range "bug/feature" mentioned

above as between 2.5 & 3 knots.

Note: Up through Tutorial version 2.1, I was using a 3 minute timing instead of a 3 min. 15 second timing.

The slightly longer timing reduces the error from about 8% to about three-tenths of 1% and is just as simple to employ!

NOTE: Don’t forget the ruler measuring problem

(i.e. don’t forget to subtract 50 meters from your measurement) discussed above.

Step #9: Determine the Target’s Course

Now that we have a line of travel plotted from Step #8,

all we need to do is measure the angle of that line to see what course

the target is moving down; i.e. if you were on the target’s boat,

what compass heading would you be on.

Once again, Jiim’s amazing tools come into play.  Just select your ruler tool

and zoom into the line you just plotted in Step #8. 

Now place the compass of the ruler tool so the crosshair is right on the line. 

The target’s course will be the compass point where, due to the

target’s direction of travel, it would have first made contact with the compass.

Above: Target enters compass along Course Line at 67 degrees.

This is then the Target Course.

Final Results

Assuming that we've done our job correctly, we now have the two vital pieces of information

we need to properly engage the target:

Course Heading = 67 degrees

Target Speed = approx. 2.5 - 3 knots

Section III - "Fast 90 Basic" Manual Targeting

First, my indebteness to Squidget who has helped school me on the finer points

of deploying this method of manual targeting. 

In a nutshell, Fast 90 Basic involves lining up your U-Boat perpendicular to the target's

course line in preparation for shooting.  This has the tremendous benefit,

once you set up your TDC correctly, of enabling the rapid deployment of your torpedoes

against one or more targets by just aiming your scope at the target, taking a quick range finding,

and then firing.  It is a perfect solution for engaging multiple targets traveling along the same

course and at the same speed; in other words.... CONVOYS!

FYI:  This tutorial does not address the issues of navigating to the optimal firing position vis a vis your

single or convoy targets prior to engagement.  Although this example successfully engages a target

from the starboard stern position, it is often advantageous to motor ahead of a target or convoy,

and engage from a position forward of the target(s). 

Note: The Fast 90 Tutorial which follows uses the course and speed data collected in Section I above.

Step #1: Calculate a Course Perpendicular to the Target

A perpendicular course is one that intersects the target's course at a 90 degree angle.

This can be calculated using the Protractor Tool that was added to SHIII in patch 1.2.  

To utilize the Protractor's 3-Click method, go to the Navigation Chart by hitting "F5"

and select the Protractor Tool.  Place the crosshair of the tool directly over the target's course line and

left click for Click #1.  Now drag the mouse down the course line overlaying the course line with

the Protractor's red line.  When you have a nice, overlay, left click for Click #2.  Now move perpendicular

to the course line and rotate the mouse until the angle at Click #2 shows 90 degrees.  At this point lock it

in by left clicking for Click #3:

Now that we have a perpendicular line plotted, we need to find what course that line

corresponds to so we can then order our U-Boat to that new heading.

Simple. Just as we did to find the target's course, select the Ruler Tool and find where your

U-Boat's direction of travel first intersects the Compass.  This is the course heading that will

bring you to a 90 degree intersection course in relation to the target's course (i.e. perpendicular):

Above: Our U-Boat would enter the Compass at 326 degrees.

This is our perpendicular course.

Note: For the mathematically inclined, the Perpendicular Course to Target can be determine without using any

additional mapping tools.  The calculation is a bit different based upon whether you are approaching the

target from its starboard or port side.

Starboard Calculation:

Perp Course to Target = Target Course - 90.  If the result is less than zero, add 360 to the result.

Port Calculation:

Perp Course to Target= Target Course + 90. If the result is greater than 360, subtract 360 from the result.

EXAMPLE: We calculated a target course in the examples above of 56 degrees.  As we are approaching

the target on its starboard side, the Perpendicular Course to Target is:

56 - 90 which equals negative 34.  As this is less than zero, we must add back 360 to get a result

of 326; exactly what our Protractor method revealed.

Step #2: Turn to the Calculated Perpendicular Course

Now that we have the Perpendicular Course to Target, we must order our crew to turn the U-Boat in that direction.

With version 1.3, there are now TWO ways to do this.

OPTION A: Compass Clicking

Unfortunately, this is one area of SHII that is a bit of a shortcoming; the inability to easily enter a specific course.

In our example, we want to turn to course 326.  Find the Course Compass in the bottom right of the screen and

select the course you desire on the outside ring of the compass:

Expect several FRUSTRATING attempts to get on the course you desire.

If you are not in motion, give a command to move yourself forward at the desired speed to make

your turn.

OPTION B: Heading to View Command

Patch 1.3 adds the much needed ability to turn your U-Boat to the course that you are currently viewing

either through your periscope, UZO, binoculars, or naked eye out on the bridge. 

However, since your bearing is relative to your U-boat and NOT to True North, you need to do a quick calculation

to determine where to point your scope/UZO/binoculars prior to hitting the "+" key (i.e. turning your U-Boat

to your current view).

Doing this requires a quick calculation using the following formula:

Scope Bearing = Perpendicular Course to Target - Current U-Boat Course.  If the result is a negative number, add 360.

Now simply rotate your optic to the Scope Bearing result obtained above and press the "+" key.  Your U-Boat will now be

on the Perpendicular Course to Target.

Step #3: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

Go to the TDC screen and click the Red Manual Solution button so it turns Green. 

This tells you that you can now change settings manually.

Turn the SPEED dial until it shows the target speed you determined earlier. In

our example, it is between 3 and 3.5 knots.

When the Manual Solution button is RED, the optical viewer (i.e. your scope or UZO) automatically updates your

AoB after the AoB is entered as the bearing to target changes in the scope.  This will be VERY important later on

when we enter the AoB into the TDC.  REMEMBER: Turn the Manual Solution button back OFF to RED after you

enter your speed. 

Torpedoes can be set to detonate on contact or, even better, to explode

when they are right under the target’s keel by way of a magnetic triggering

device in the torpedo for maximum damage potential! 

The target’s keel depth is listed in the Ship Recognition Manual so go back

there if you need to know the keel depth.  If using magnetic triggers, change from “I” to “M”

on the PISTOL dial and then set the torpedo running depth on the

DEPTH dial to 1-2 meters below the keel value you gleaned from the Recognition Manual.

FYI: In the real War, Admiral Doenitz issued a ban on using magnetic torpedo triggers

for a period of time early on due to their horrific failure rate.  If you have Duds

selected from the main menu, expect some realism!

Some of the torpedoes have the ability to set running speed. 

Slower speeds go longer distances, but give the target more time to spot

and evade the torpedo.  I always set to fast speed as I rarely shoot over 1500 meters

(especially when I have to first identify a ships nationality!).  Flip the switch from

“S” to “F” on the SPEED dial to set them fast running.

 

WARNING:  There is a *nasty* bug as of version 1.2 that will cause misses in certain situations if switching

between different types of torpedoes with differing speeds.  In order to protect against this bug, you MUST

click the TORPEDO SPEED switch EVEN IF that selected torpedo only has one speed setting after you select

the torpedo.  This will update the gyro with the new torpedo speed.

EXAMPLE:  If you have Tube #1 selected with a Type I Steam Torpedo set to FAST (i.e. 44 knots), the gyro will set accordingly

for the speed of the torpedo to correctly lead the target.  If you then switch to Tune #3 containing a Type II Electric Torpedo

that only has one speed setting (i.e. SLOW of 30 knots), the gyro WILL NOT BE UPDATED to reflect the slower torpedo

speed UNLESS TO TORPEDO SPEED SWITCH is clicked resulting in a probable missed shot.

NOTE: When clicking on the TORPEDO SWITCH for a torpedo that has only one speed setting (i.e. the Type II), the

TORPEDO SWITCH will NOT move.  The only indication that you have done anything with the click will be the change of

position of the gyro dial(s).

Next, turn your TUBE SELECTION dial until the amount of torpedoes and from

which tubes are correctly highlighted.

 

Finally, select your SPREAD ANGLE on the dial to determine

what degree difference your gyros should be set for each salvo in the fan shot.

NOTE:  Torpedo "Mix" can be VERY important in a Fan Shot.  For example, if one or two of your

torpedoes is a T-I steam torpedo set to FAST, it will be visible from the surface thus giving your target a chance to

spot it and evade.  If the others are T-III electric torpedoes, they will not have a visible wake, but they travel 14knots

slower than a T-I set to FAST.  It is thus best to match similar torpedo types for a Fan Shot.

 

 

Above: Two torpedo "Fan" shot set with magnetic pistols and running depth of approx. 9m.  A small

Spread Angle is used to inflict maximum damage to the center of the ship. Ignore the speed

settings as this picture was made for the "Wheel" method of targeting discussed in Section IV..

DO NOT PROCEED TO STEP #4 UNTIL YOU ARE ON THE NEW COURSE HEADING!

Step #4: Calibrate Scope & TDC

Once you are on your new course, go to you scope/UZO view and set the bearing to EXACTLY 000 degrees:

Above: Scope at exactly 000 degrees.

Go to the TDC.  Here you will manually set the scope bearing to 000 and the AoB to

90 degrees PORT or STARBOARD depending upon which direction you are approaching from.

Click the Red Manual Solution button so it turns Green.  This tells you that you can now

change settings manually.

First, if it is not already there, move the BEARING needle on the BEARING gauge until it is EXACTLY at 000.  Next,

depending upon whether you are approaching the target from the target's port or starboard side, move the

ANGLE ON BOW needle until it is 90 degrees on either the PORT (Red side) or STARBOARD (Green side) of the gauge:

Above: Bearing set to 000 degrees and AoB to 90 degrees starboard.

IMPORTANT: Click the Manual Solution Button from GREEN to RED to link your TDC back to the scope.

Step #5: Final Target Observation

As you point your scope at the target, the AoB will automatically be calculated and updated in the TDC.

That's the beauty of the Fast 90 method.  No need to manually enter or guestimate the AoB!

Taking one final range reading prior to firing will both slightly increase your accuracy as

well as give you an idea of when the torpedo should impact.

 

 

 

NOTE: Clicking the checkbox on the Range "page" only sends the new Range

information to the "Primary" Notepad page.  You must click the checkbox on the

"Primary" Notepad page to update the TDC with your new range:

 

Click the checkbox on this "Primary" page of the Notepad

to transfer your range finding to the TDC.

ALWAYS press the 'Q' key to open the tube of each torpedo selected.  The extra second

or two it takes to open a tube can make the difference between a hit and a miss.

 

Step #6: LOS!

Take the shot!!!

And the results:

Hmmm... long distance and from behind... who IS this Kapitaen?!

Wait a second....

Maybe there is something to this stuff...

Section IV - "Fast 90 Advanced" Manual Targeting

Ok.... so you've mastered turning your U-Boat into a perpendicular course to your target and

then deploying your torpedoes.  However, sometimes turning to that course does not fit with

the overall tactical situation you are presented with.  For example, maybe you would prefer NOT

to turn directly towards that escort that is protecting the convoy.  Or maybe you are playing

submerged catch-up to your targets and just can't quite get ahead enough to turn 90 degrees

into the target course and still have an acceptably low gyro deviation from 000 (remember, the more the

gyro deviates from 000, the more prone to error and thus the higher the probability of a miss).

Fast 90 Advanced is for you Kapitaen!

Step #1 - Calculate a Course Perpendicular to the Target

This is identical to Step #1 in the Fast 90 Basic Section.  If you need a refresher course, please go there.

Step #2 - Turn to your Desired Course

The process of turning your U-Boat (i.e. clicking on the outer ring of the Compass Gauge) is identical

to Step #2 in the Fast 90 Basic Section.

However, you may, within the limits of your torpedo gyro, turn your U-Boat to any course you desire.

In this example, using the Target Course of 56 degrees calculated in Section I and the Perpendicular

Course to Target of 326 degrees calculated in Section III, I turn the U-Boat to a heading of 013 degrees:

Above: New course set of 013 degrees.

Step #3: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

This is identical to Step #3 in the Fast 90 Basic Section. If you need a refresher course, please go there.

DO NOT PROCEED TO STEP #4 UNTIL YOU ARE ON THE NEW COURSE HEADING!

Step #4: Calculate Scope Bearing for TDC Calibration

Unlike calibrating the Scope & TDC in Fast 90 Basic method, pointing at 000 degrees will not work because your course is

NOT perpendicular.  Since your bow is not on a perpendicular course, you must rotate your scope to the Perpendicular

Course to Target instead and THEN calibrate the TDC as done in Fast 90 Basic.

To calculate the bearing to rotate the scope to in preparation for TDC calibration, we can utilize either the Navigation Map,

or mathematical computation.

OPTION A - Determining Scope Bearing Using the Navigation Map

Since we are now moving down a new bearing ourselves, we need to extend a ruler line from the bow

of our U-Boat to several kilometers in the distance.  Simply select the Ruler Tool and draw a line

bearing 000 from your U-Boat's bow.

 

Above: Extend a course line from your U-Boat's bow bearing 000 degrees.

Note how the line drawn corresponds to 13 degrees on the compass.

Identical to how we used the protractor to create a 90 degree perpendicular course in

Step#1 of the Fast 90 Basic Section, do the same here but make sure that it extends

long enough to intersect the new U-Boat course line you have drawn in the previous step.

 

Above: Make sure that the perpendicular

course line extends through the U-Boat line drawn above.

Using the Protractor Tool one last time, measure the angle created by the intersection of the Course line

for your U-Boat and the Perpendicular Course Line drawn from the target's course.  This angle is the bearing

from the bow of your U-Boat that you will set the scope to during calibration.

 

Above: The protractor tools reveals that you need to turn your

scope 47 degrees to port for TDC calibration.

Now that you have the angle measurement from the step above, you need to calculate what bearing to

turn the scope to in order to calibrate the TDC. 

 

The answer depends on whether the target is to your port or to your starboard.

 

TARGET TO PORT

 

Scope Bearing = 360 - Angle Measured Above

 

TARGET TO STARBOARD

 

Scope Bearing = Angle Measured Above

 

EXAMPLE:  After doing the charting, the angle of intersection of the U-Boat course line and the perpendicular line is 47 degrees.

Since the target is to our port (left) side, we calculate 360 - 47 = 313 degrees.

OPTION B - Determining Scope Bearing Using Computation

Once again, for the mathematically inclined, you can forego using the mapping tools and instead do a quick calculation to determine

what bearing you need to point your scope at for calibration:

Scope Bearing = Perpendicular Course to Target - Current U-Boat Course.  If the result is a negative number, add 360.

 

EXAMPLE:  From the Fast 90 Basic Section, we computed a Perpendicular Course to Target of 326 degrees.  Our current

U-Boat heading is 013 degrees.  Thus, 326 - 013 = 313 degrees.

Step #5: Calibrate Scope & TDC

With the result obtained in either Option A or Option B above, enter your scope view and set your scope EXACTLY

to the result obtained:

Above: From the results obtained in Step #4,

the scope is set to 313 degrees.

Next, go to the TDC.  Here you will manually set the AoB to 90 degrees PORT or STARBOARD

depending upon which direction you are approaching from.

Click the Red Manual Solution button so it turns Green.  This tells you that you can now

change settings manually.  Next, depending upon whether you are approaching the target

from the target's port or starboard side, move the ANGLE ON BOW needle until it is 90 degrees

on either the PORT (Red side) or STARBOARD (Green side) of the gauge:

Above: Angle on Bow gauge set to 90 deg Starboard

Step #6: Final Target Observation

This is identical to Step #5 in the Fast 90 Basic Section. If you need a refresher course, please go there.

Step #7: LOS!

Take the shot!

Section V - "Wheel" Manual Targeting

This method of calculating the AoB of your targets is somewhat more labor intensive than

the "Fast 90" methods discussed in Section III and Section IV.  The beauty of SHII, however, is the ability

to pick and choose from available methods depending on the situation.

Plus.... that damn Wheel is just so COOL!!!

Note: The Wheel Tutorial which follows uses the course and speed data collected in Section II above.

Step #1: Enter Speed and Torpedo Settings in TDC

Go to the TDC screen and click the Red Manual Solution button so it turns Green. 

This tells you that you can now change settings manually.

Turn the SPEED dial until it shows the target speed you determined earlier. In

our example, it is between 2.5 and 3 knots.

When the Manual Solution button is RED, the optical viewer (i.e. your scope or UZO) automatically updates your

AoB after the AoB is entered as the bearing to target changes in the scope.  This will be VERY important later on

when we enter the AoB into the TDC.  REMEMBER: Turn the Manual Solution button back OFF to RED after you

enter your speed. 

Torpedoes can be set to detonate on contact or, even better, to explode

when they are right under the target’s keel by way of a magnetic triggering

device in the torpedo for maximum damage potential! 

The target’s keel depth is listed in the Ship Recognition Manual so go back

there if you need to know the keel depth.  If using magnetic triggers, change from “I” to “M”

on the PISTOL dial and then set the torpedo running depth on the

DEPTH dial to 1-2 meters below the keel value you gleaned from the Recognition Manual.

FYI: In the real War, Admiral Doenitz issued a ban on using magnetic torpedo triggers

for a period of time early on due to their horrific failure rate.  If you have Duds

selected from the main menu, expect some realism!

Some of the torpedoes have the ability to set running speed. 

Slower speeds go longer distances, but give the target more time to spot

and evade the torpedo.  I always set to fast speed as I rarely shoot over 1500 meters

(especially when I have to first identify a ships nationality!).  Flip the switch from

“S” to “F” on the SPEED dial to set them fast running.

WARNING:  There is a *nasty* bug as of version 1.2 that will cause misses in certain situations if switching

between different types of torpedoes with differing speeds.  In order to protect against this bug, you MUST

click the TORPEDO SPEED switch EVEN IF that selected torpedo only has one speed setting after you select

the torpedo.  This will update the gyro with the new torpedo speed.

EXAMPLE:  If you have Tube #1 selected with a Type I Steam Torpedo set to FAST (i.e. 44 knots), the gyro will set accordingly

for the speed of the torpedo to correctly lead the target.  If you then switch to Tune #3 containing a Type II Electric Torpedo

that only has one speed setting (i.e. SLOW of 30 knots), the gyro WILL NOT BE UPDATED to reflect the slower torpedo

speed UNLESS TO TORPEDO SPEED SWITCH is clicked resulting in a probable missed shot.

NOTE: When clicking on the TORPEDO SWITCH for a torpedo that has only one speed setting (i.e. the Type II), the

TORPEDO SWITCH will NOT move.  The only indication that you have done anything with the click will be the change of

position of the gyro dial(s).

Next, turn your TUBE SELECTION dial until the amount of torpedoes and from

which tubes are correctly highlighted.

 

Finally, select your SPREAD ANGLE on the dial to determine

what degree difference your gyros should be set for each salvo in the fan shot.

NOTE:  Torpedo "Mix" can be VERY important in a Fan Shot.  For example, if one or two of your

torpedoes is a T-I steam torpedo set to FAST, it will be visible from the surface thus giving your target a chance to

spot it and evade.  If the others are T-III electric torpedoes, they will not have a visible wake, but they travel 14knots

slower than a T-I set to FAST.  It is thus best to match similar torpedo types for a Fan Shot.

 

 

Above: Two torpedo "Fan" shot set with magnetic pistols and running depth of approx. 9m.  A small

Spread Angle is used to inflict maximum damage to the center of the ship. Speed is set between 2.5 & 3knots

based upon earlier observations.

Step #2: Determine Angle on the Bow (AoB)

From Section II, we have calculated the target course heading.. 

However, the TDC does not accept input of target course heading. 

You must first convert this number into an AoB value and enter that into the Notepad.

Patch 1.2 includes a protractor tool to do this.  However, the protractor

is not the best way to go when the target and/or the U-boat are in motion

as the solution constantly changes.

This is where Etchasketch’s Bearing/AoB tool comes into play. 

The brilliance of this tool is that once set (and assuming the Target and U-boat do not

alter their courses), you can instantly determine the AoB

and never need to make another plot on the chart!

I printed mine out in color on cardstock and then used a brass two-prong pin to

connect the two circles which spin with ease!

To use this tool in our situation, rotate the inner circle until the arrow

of the INNER CIRCLE points to the TARGET’S Course Heading on the middle circle. 

Once this is done, DO NOT move the inner circle again unless either you or the target change course.

Above: Target Course Heading set to 67 degrees on Middle Circle

TIP: If you have not already done so, you might want to turn more towards your target to decrease

the Target Bearing towards 000 degrees.  If it is early in the war, your ultimate gyro angles should not be greater

than +-90 degrees from a 000 degree bearing (i.e. the front of the U-Boat).  Later on, this deviation

increases from +-90 degrees to +-135 degrees.  The closer the target bears from 000 degrees, the lower the gyro

angle and the more accurate the shot.  Just make sure to note the new course heading for the procedures that

follow.

To determine the AoB, you must now determine the Target Bearing from North

and find that value on the inner circle.  Remember from Step #5, the Target Bearing

from North is just the current Target Bearing shown in your scope + your U-boat's actual course

heading (minus 360 if the sum is greater than 360). 

Once you find this value on the inner circle, see where that is lined up on the colored

outer circle of the tool.  This is you the AoB!

Example:  The Target Course Heading is 67 degrees as shown in the above

picture.  At the time of our 2nd observation, the Target Bearing to the U-boat

as seen through the scope was 311 degrees.  We know that our U-boat heading

is 44 degrees.  Thus the Target Bearing to North is 311+44=355.  Now, find

355 degrees on the Inner Wheel and see where that lines up to on the Outer Circle.

As you can see in the picture below, 355 on the Inner Circle aligns roughly with

108 degrees Starboard on the Outer Circle.  Thus, your AoB for a 311 degree

Target Bearing from the U-boat is 108 degrees Starboard.

Above: 311 deg Target Bearing = 355 deg Target Bearing From North = 108 deg Stb AoB

The beauty of this little do-hickey is that you can get everything set up for a FUTURE shot

by picking a Target Bearing from North that will appear later on and know in advance

what the AoB will be at that time.  This gives you time to set your torpedoes, close your

distance to target, etc.

Example:  For my actual shot for this Tutorial, I decided to wait until the Target Bearing

from my U-boat was 325 degrees.  This gave me a little time to close the distance and

set my torpedoes.  To convert 325 degrees Target Bearing from U-boat to Target

Bearing from North, I added my course heading of 44 degrees or 325+44=369 degrees.

Since this was greater than 360, I subtracted 360 to get a Target Bearing from North

of 9 degrees WHEN THE SCOPE EVENTUALLY SHOWS 325 degrees (i.e. a "future" shot).

Thus, set the AoB in the Notepad to approx. 122 deg Stb (the Outer Circle number

that roughly aligns with 9 degrees).  Wait for the scope to show 325 deg Target Bearing

and then FIRE!

Above: AoB for Future shot of Target Bearing 325 = approx. 122 Stb AoB

Step 3: Enter AoB into the Notepad

Go to the Notepad now and enter your AoB into the AoB Notepad page:

Once you enter the AoB on this page, clicking the checkbox will enter the AoB onto the Notepad's "Primary"

page.  As emphasized below, you MUST click the checkbox a second time on the "Primary" page to

transfer the information into the TDC .

IMPORTANT NOTE ON NOTEPAD DATA ENTRY:  The Notepad has multiple "pages" to it.  The ONLY

"page" that actually transfers information to the TDC when you click the checkbox is the "Primary"

Notepad page that has all three data points on it as shown below:

Click the checkbox on this "Primary" page of the Notepad to transfer the information on the page to the TDC.

Note: If you are setting up for a future shot, DO NOT click the checkbox on the "Primary" Notepad page

UNTIL you are ready to take your shot.  The TDC automatically updates the AoB as your bearing changes. 

Therefore, if you enter the future AoB into the Notepad in advance of your shot,

the TDC computer will assume that the future AoB is the CURRENT AoB and will

continue to update the AoB as your bearing changes thus WAY over-leading your target.

Step #4: Final Observation

Taking one final range reading prior to firing will both slightly increase your accuracy as

well as give you an idea of when the torpedo should impact. 

 

Remember: Clicking the checkbox on the Range "page" only sends the new Range

information to the "Primary" Notepad page.  You must click the checkbox on the

"Primary" Notepad page to update the TDC with your new range.

 

IMPORTANT:  If you have an older AoB still entered on the "Primary" Notepad page,

clicking the checkbox on that page will not only update the TDC with your new Range, but will

also RESET the AoB to the figure previously entered into the Notepad thus negating the automatic

AoB updates that the optical devices have been feeding your TDC.  Clearing the "Primary" Notepad

prior to taking a new range by clicking the "X" button will clear all Notepad data.  Now, when you

update the range, only that data will be sent to the TDC. 

 

TIP:  It is always good practice to update the AoB at the same time as updating the range for your final shot.

This will compensate for minor variations in your speed versus standing still and further increase the accuracy

of your shot. If you have entered a FUTURE AoB from the previous Steps, wait until the Target Bearing in the scope

matches your anticipate bearing before clicking the checkbox.

Above: Doh!  I took this screenshot before realizing I had the incorrect AoB entered.  That SHOULD

read 122stb.  Forgot to take a screenshot after correcting.  Remember to click that check box

to update the gyro angle just before the shot!

Step #5: LOS!!

Now the moment of truth. Time to fire!

And the results:

On the Way!

Say Hello to my Little Friends!

That's one!

That's Two!

Man those C2 Cargo Ships are TOUGH!

I'm done playin' around Englander!

Now its REALLY a Long Long Way to Tipperary

Section VI - Advanced Speed Calculation - Using the Nomograph

Congratulations! You can manually chart targets and sink ships with the best of them.  However,

sometimes waiting around for 3 minutes and 15 seconds to get a speed calculation on your target

while it is closing in on you is making you scream "ALARM!" more than you would like.

In this section, we will discuss how to get accurate speed calculations for your target in as little

as 30 seconds using a tool called a nomograph.

What's a Nomograph??

A nomograph is a graphical tool that enables you to quickly calculate a mathematical function by just

drawing a line between two known values and observing where that line intersects the third value you want to solve for.

Think of it as a "visual calculator"... or... for the older crowd... a static sliderule.

In the "real" U.S. Navy, young sailors are taught how to plot targets they observe on an erasable

white board called a Maneuvering Board.

A Navy Maneuvering Board

At the bottom of the Board are three scales: Time, Distance and Speed.  If a sailor, after plotting a target

and determining the distance it has traveled in a set period of time, wants to determine

the target's speed, all he has to do is draw a line from the TIME line, through the DISTANCE line, and

observe where the line intersects the SPEED line.  That's even faster than using a calculator!

Pick Your Nomograph Mod

Since SHIII does not include a nomograph, I decided to create one.  There are three "flavors" to choose from. 

Each works in the identical fashion, so it is just a matter of personal preference which one you use.

Static Horizontal Nomograph

This version is non-movable and is oriented horizontally along the bottom of the Navigation Map:

Click on the link directly below for this version:

Horizontal Nomograph

Static Vertical Nomograph

This version is also non-movable and is oriented vertically along the right side of the Navigation Map:

Click on the link directly below for this version:

Vertical Nomograph

Draggable Nomograph

This version, my personal favorite, allows you to both change the size of the nomograph as well

as drag it around the screen.  For example, when not using it, I drag it down off the map to get

it out of the way:

Click on the link directly below for this version:

Draggable Nomograph

Step 1: Determine the Target's Distance Traveled in a Given Time

The technique here is the same one used in Section I & Section II when plotting a target

over a 3 minute 15 second timeframe.  The only difference here is that you are not stuck with

3 minutes and 15 seconds.   Although theoretically you can do it as quickly as 30 seconds

(the minimum timescale on the nomograph), I find 1 minute the best minimum for a slow moving target.

Step 2: Draw a Line Connecting Your Target Distance Traveled and Time Traveled

Since we have the target distance traveled in a known period of time, we can easily compute how many knots

the target is moving by drawing a line from the TIME scale, through the DISTANCE scale and continuing

straight through to the SPEED scale.

EXAMPLE:  You observe a target which travels 200 meters in 1 minute.  To determine how fast it is going,

draw a line from 1 minute, through .2km, and observer where on the speed scale it intersects.  In the example

below, the target is going about 6.5knots:

TIP:  As you can see from the above picture, I often don't try to put the end of the line directly on the point

I want to measure.  I find that the little "cross" drawn at the end of the line sometimes interferes with accurate

placement.  To get around this, just extend the line past the scale line and move  it until the line itself intersects

the points you want to measure.

Now take your speed finding and utilize your favorite manual torpedo targeting method!

Tutorial Related Links

PDF version of the Tutorial graciously prepared and hosted by Ekko:

Ekko's PDF of Wazoo's Manual Charting & Targeting Tutorial [v 2.1]

Version de PDF du cours d'instruction [ v1.2 ] en français by Gras-du-Bide:

PDF [v1.2] en français

I hope you've found this little Tutorial helpful.  If you have any comments or questions, you

can find me on the Subsim.com Forums.  Private Message me.  I'm Wazoo!

Revisions:

            Added Advanced Speed Calculation using the Nomograph Mod

            Updated Fast 90 Basic Course setting with Heading to View method

            General Updates to conform with patch 1.3

            Changed 3 minute timing rule to 3 min 15 sec for greater accuracy [Thanks Squidget & others]

            Added warning about torpedo speed selector bug not updating gyro when switching torp types

            Added link to Devnull's Scope Mod

            Added Fast 90 Advanced

            Shamelessly added PayPal Donation link

            Section Renumbering

            Misc minor fixes/rewordings

            Added Dead Stop Charting

            Added Fast 90 Targeting

            General Reorganization of steps